Things that I've learned along the way.
Lager Fermentation
"Nah, just whack the temperature up to 18C quickly before terminal gravity and let it finish, about four days should do it.
Then quickly back to about 10C and then 1C drop per day, hold at 2-3C for a few days, drop to minus 2C for three days and you're done,
Steve."
Then quickly back to about 10C and then 1C drop per day, hold at 2-3C for a few days, drop to minus 2C for three days and you're done,
Steve."
Priming Calculations
Calculations should be done using the maximum post-fermentation temperature (not necessarily bottling temperature). Will link to priming calculator at some point.
Dry Hopping
Info on dry hopping.
Hop Steeping/Hop Tea
Info on adding hop tea to the wort.
Cold Crashing
Should be done after the yeast has finished cleaning up (i.e. at least a week after primary fermentation is complete). Aim to cold crash as close to 0C as possible, for at least a couple of days. Cold crashing helps to clear the beer, so is not needed for all styles.
Hops
Saaz are good for Czech pilseners.
Cascade, Amarillo and Citra are generally well regarded.
Pride of Ringwood for Aussie Ales.
Nelson Sauvin can be piney/winey.
Cascade, Amarillo and Citra are generally well regarded.
Pride of Ringwood for Aussie Ales.
Nelson Sauvin can be piney/winey.
Fermentation Temperatures
Ales at 18-20C. Lagers at 12-14C.
Reculturing Yeast
i) Try using a lot smaller volume for the first step. Even with the dregs from 6 bottles you don't know how much viable yeast is in there so you have to assume there is not very much.
When I did my last CSA yeast culture I started with 2 bottles of dregs in only 60ml of wort.
Wait till you some some noticeable signs of yeast activity before you step up ( x10 to 600ml ) from there you should not have any problems, and can step up successively larger amounts ( can go to 2 liters from the 600 ml stage )
It took over 2 days for my first step last time, and that was with a stir plate as well.
If you try to do too big a step at once you run a lot greater risk of bacteria infection ( as there is a lot more wort with not much yeast ) and it will take longer for the fermentation cycle to start.
ii) The starter is all about making yeast, not beer. You want the ideal conditions for yeast propagation which is generally around 24-26C (even for lager yeasts) and 1.030-1.040 wort. You want it make as easy as possible for the yeast to propagate prior to pitching, and they will survive the temperature changes without too many problems if they are propagated properly.
I generally cold crash my starters (down to about 4C) a day or two before pitching so that I can pour off the resulting starter wort/beer (which is usually pretty revolting by this stage) and only pitch the yeast.
iii) try agitating your starter as much as possible. Just give it a bit of swirl around every time you go past it. It helps with the propagation process (hence the use of stir plates if you have access to them).
When I did my last CSA yeast culture I started with 2 bottles of dregs in only 60ml of wort.
Wait till you some some noticeable signs of yeast activity before you step up ( x10 to 600ml ) from there you should not have any problems, and can step up successively larger amounts ( can go to 2 liters from the 600 ml stage )
It took over 2 days for my first step last time, and that was with a stir plate as well.
If you try to do too big a step at once you run a lot greater risk of bacteria infection ( as there is a lot more wort with not much yeast ) and it will take longer for the fermentation cycle to start.
ii) The starter is all about making yeast, not beer. You want the ideal conditions for yeast propagation which is generally around 24-26C (even for lager yeasts) and 1.030-1.040 wort. You want it make as easy as possible for the yeast to propagate prior to pitching, and they will survive the temperature changes without too many problems if they are propagated properly.
I generally cold crash my starters (down to about 4C) a day or two before pitching so that I can pour off the resulting starter wort/beer (which is usually pretty revolting by this stage) and only pitch the yeast.
iii) try agitating your starter as much as possible. Just give it a bit of swirl around every time you go past it. It helps with the propagation process (hence the use of stir plates if you have access to them).
DIY Wort Chiller
Links I've found...
Mashing
Mash at low temps - lower FG i.e. more fermentable sugars.
Mash at higher temps - higher FG i.e. more dextrinous wort.
Mash at higher temps - higher FG i.e. more dextrinous wort.
No-chill Method
Pour hot wort directly into a cube (a food grade plastic container). Squeeze all air out, tip cube to ensure hot wort comes into contact with the lid. Leave to cool overnight or longer (seems to be OK for a few weeks if the seal is good). Pitch whenever.
Cereal Mashing
Adding rice etc to the mash.
Home-brewing Shopping List
This is a basic shopping list for a home-brew set up.
Brew fridge (from Gumtree or eBay) - $50
Temperature controller - $70
Bottles (2 x Coopers Pale Longnecks) - $80
or
Bottles (2 x box of 24 650ml) - $40
19 litre stainless pot (Big W) - $20
Fermenter (30 litre Bunnings container with tap) - $20
Hydrometer - $10
Bottling wand - $10
TOTAL - $220
For the first brew (23 litres)...
Dry Malt Extract - $20
Yeast - $5
Hops - $10
TOTAL - $35
Brew fridge (from Gumtree or eBay) - $50
Temperature controller - $70
Bottles (2 x Coopers Pale Longnecks) - $80
or
Bottles (2 x box of 24 650ml) - $40
19 litre stainless pot (Big W) - $20
Fermenter (30 litre Bunnings container with tap) - $20
Hydrometer - $10
Bottling wand - $10
TOTAL - $220
For the first brew (23 litres)...
Dry Malt Extract - $20
Yeast - $5
Hops - $10
TOTAL - $35